By Tim Tiptree
From our friends at Christie's
Champagne must come from Champagne
True Champagne must come from the Champagne region, in the
northeast of France. Though sparkling wines are produced worldwide, only those
produced in the
Champagne region are legally allowed to use the name
Champagne on the label and are recognised as being authentic — the name
Champagne is protected by EU law.
Look out for top brands — and niche producers
The very best and most expensive Champagnes are
single-vintage ‘Prestige Cuvées’ that include names such as Krug Clos du
Mesnil, Clos d’Ambonnay, Louis Roederer’s Cristal, Dom Pérignon and Salon Le
Mesnil. In the last five to 10 years, smaller grower-producers have seen a rise
in popularity — particularly among expert collectors who really know their
Champagne. Christie’s sells bottles by these independent producers including
Jacques Selosse, who’s at the forefront of the movement.
Non-vintage vs. prestige cuvée. What’s the difference?
Many producers release a top Champagne, known as its prestige
cuvée. These are only made following an exceptional harvest and, as a result,
exist in much smaller quantities, and at much higher prices. Salon Le Mesnil,
for example, has released just 39 vintages since it was first produced in 1905.
A Champagne house’s prestige cuvée will often have its own
name: Louis Roederer calls its prestige cuvée Cristal, while Pol Roger
produces Sir Winston Churchill — a vintage Champagne that aims to
imitate the robust build of the famed politician. Vintage Champagnes have the
potential to evolve in bottle and develop honeyed, crème brulée complexity.
The vast majority of all Champagne, however, is non-vintage.
This type of Champagne is made not from a single harvest, but from a blend of
several years, resulting in a consistent house style. For this reason,
non-vintage Champagnes will be undated. Moët & Chandon is the best-known
non-vintage Champagne.
Is a prestige cuvée worth it?
Top Champagne will have the right balance of acidity and
intensity of flavour. Prestige cuvées such as Cristal or Krug really are
incredible, offering an amazing harmony, and very long persistence (the length
of time their flavour lingers in the mouth) and ageability that allows the
Champagne to evolve with bottle age. A good prestige cuvée really is
exceptional — you can certainly taste the difference.
Magnum or miniature? If in doubt, go big
At 1.5 litres, a magnum is twice the size of a standard 75cl
bottle, and half the size of the 3-litre jeroboam. Although more expensive,
larger bottles have the benefit of tending to age more slowly, with less oxidation
and more freshness. One reason for this is that the ‘ullage’ (the distance
between the bottom of the cork and the champagne liquid) is proportionally
smaller in a larger bottle — meaning less oxygen gets into the bottle during
disgorgement; approximately half compared to a standard bottle.
Another advantage of bigger bottles, of course, is that they
are better for parties.
When collecting, consider two key factors
The Champagne house and vintage should guide your buying. I
recommend new collectors try a range of champagnes to determine what they like.
Consider buying different Champagnes: for example, a Pol Roger, a Krug, a
Bollinger and a Cristal. Different houses age their Champagnes for differing
periods of time on the dead yeasts that cause the second fermentation in bottle
and the fizz (lees). The minimum requirement for non-vintage Champagne is 12
months on the lees, and for vintage three years, but in practice the top
Champagnes are aged for much longer. This has an effect on the flavour profiles,
with complex brioche and toast from the long period of ageing on the lees
(called autolytic ageing).
Once you’ve settled on your preferred house, you can
consider vintage. Although top champagnes are only produced in exceptional
years, some vintages are better than others. In 2003, for example, atypical hot
weather led to few houses releasing a vintage. In 2002, however, nearly every
house released a vintage — a clear indicator of an exceptional year. 1996 was
also a great year for vintage champagne.
Familiarise yourself with key terms
In Champagne the levels of residual sugar, called dosage,
are key, with the lowest being Zero Dosage, through to Extra-Brut, Brut,
Extra-Dry, Sec, Demi-Sec, and Doux. The most common styles, however, are
Extra-Brut, Brut and Demi-Sec.
Zero Dosage has no dosage sugar added to it, and is more
austere and lean — perfect as an accompaniment to sashimi. At the opposite end
are Demi-Sec, with between 32 and 50 grams of residual sugar per litre, or
Doux, with more than 50 grams. Both are ideal for those who prefer sweeter
Champagne, and are perfect with dessert, or at the end of a meal.
Occasionally, Champagnes will be labelled Blanc de Noirs or
Blanc de Blancs, indicating the colour and variety of the grapes used. Blanc de
Noirs is made from Pinot Noir or Pinot Meunier, while Blanc de Blancs is made
purely from Chardonnay. Blanc de Noirs typically are firmer structured wines
with red-fruit flavours. Blanc de Blancs demonstrate finesse, elegance and
citrus flavours.
Should I consider Rosé?
Rosé champagnes can be excellent, though are often more
expensive, because they are produced in smaller quantities.
…and what makes Rosé pink?
Normal Champagne can be made from red grapes Pinot Noir and
Pinot Meunier. The Champagne remains clear because the grapes are pressed off
the skins very quickly — before the pigments (anthocyanins) in their skins can
colour the juice pink.
Rosé Champagne acquires its colour through one of two
methods. In the first, the juice is soaked with the skins of red grapes for a
short period prior to and during the first fermentation — a technique known as saignée,
from the French for ‘bleed’. This method is preferred by the top vintage
producers.
In the second method, a base white wine is mixed with normal
still red wine before the second fermentation in bottle, resulting in champagne
with a pink tinge.
Although it is illegal for other still rosé wines to be made
in this way, it is permitted for Champagne. Many non-vintage producers prefer
this method for its consistent colour.
Champagne doesn’t have to blow the budget
It really depends on your budget, and occasion, but it is
possible to buy a vintage Champagne from Christie’s for as little as £30.
How should I store Champagne?
Champagne should be stored in the same way as wine: in cool,
dark and humid cellars. While it has a shorter life span than, say, a tannic
red Bordeaux, good vintage Champagne can last a long time, and will develop a
great deal of character with bottle evolution — though it will begin to lose
some of its fizz.
And how should I serve Champagne?
Coupes and flutes are traditional, but many experts find vintage
Champagne is best
enjoyed in a conventional wine glass. Temperature, too,
should be a consideration: chilled vintage champagne often doesn’t reveal its
full bouquet. If you’re presented with an ice-cold glass of top champagne,
leave it to warm a little before drinking.
Of course, when opening Champagne, the key is to not hit
someone in the eye with the flying cork!